Continue reading »]]> Who resumes a bicycle trip with an 80 km long leg after a one month long lasting recovering break will be punished. Which is the case with me. But it’s my own body which punishes me.

After the first pass coming from Matsumoto

From Matsumoto I’m making my way via two smaller mountain pass to Nagano. However with one pass you wouldn’t want to mess with. After the tour I’m so exhausted that I’m simply too weak for the next two days to have a look at the city. For those who were hoping to see some photos of the former winter Olympics city may be becalmed. After the end of the cyclonara tour I will pay my friends in Manza (nearby Nagano) a visit again and there might be some time to see the city as well.

My host Alex, 24, from New Zealand teaches English in Nagano. As a topping on the ice cake of my two day recover phase I’d like to indulge my body a very special Onsen. I heard from an Onsen (hot spring) in which also Monkeys have a bath. Alex have heard from it too and so we take his car to get to the Onsen about 40 km north of Nagano (City). As we know this Onsen is one of Nagano’s (prefecture) main tourist attractions we are surprised by the low entrance fee. Only 500 Yen!

And there are really Monkeys jumping towards us after entering the Onsen area. But lockers are nowhere to be found. When approaching the Onsen we quickly realize that it’s an Onsen exclusively for Monkeys. And well… contrary to my expectations these monkeys are not trained and also use the Onsen as a toilet. Intelligible that it’s of little interest for the hygiene-conscious Japanese people to share this Onsen with the monkeys. But since Alex and I skipped the shower this morning we are – at least regarding the smell – in good company.

Snowmonkeys

[Show as slideshow]

Special thanks to: Henry Ngai, U.S.A (text revision), Alex Laing, New Zealand, Toru Momose, Japan; the whole Manza team, Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Lilith Pendzich

Continue reading »]]> To be in hot water

for people who are dead in the water

There are many Onsenhotels all over in Japan. So why would anybody take the effort to go to an Onsen located at 5900 feet altitude in the middle of the mountains? Well, there may be many Onsens in Japan but not many with real volcanic sulphur water with a high and healthy iron and minerals content. In most regions of Japan the sulphur water tends to have a green touch. However here in the Manza region the water is opaque which is kind of special and appreciated by the Japanese people. The little Tsumagoi-Mura (Mura means village) has been known for its healing springs for a long time. In the 1920′s people made pilgrimages to this place to ease their suffering. And even today it seems to enjoy a very good reputation beyond the borders of Japan. In contrast to many other onsens, Manza does not need a pipeline to reach the hot water as it is located only about 130 feet below the ground. Even the Japanese Emperor Akihito is a regular guest here. The hotel owner already got to know him at university when Akihito was a young man.

It's Japanese culture to have onsen baths only naked.

So it is a very renowned hotel. I can certainly confirm that. This week we have guests from New York, the Netherlands and even one from Germany. As I’m clearing the table the guest from the Netherlands asks me: “Where are you from?”… “Ah, Germany, I’m from Amsterdam but I work in Zurich.
“Really? I had a show about a bicycle trip I did from Hamburg to Rome there. Do you know the cafe ‘Dini Mueter’?, is my reply.
“Sure, I’m there quite often!”

Well, yes. Sometimes the world is smaller than you think. So much about the hotel and the environment I’m working in. Next weeks I will present as yet unpublished photos from Tokyo and the blog will receive general updates. And there will be another surprise.

Special thanks to: Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Kimberley Wright, UK (proofreading); Lilith Pendzich;

Continue reading »]]> Drenched Drinker

As I am delayed with my blog – the work here in Manza is very demanding – only a brief update about week 20. After all I arrived safe and sound in Manza, was provided with free board and lodging with a big room even for European standards. I also don’t have to pay for internet, laudry and body hygiene as I can use the Onsen bath every day and the hotel provides soap and shampoo of course. So it’s the perfect job to save money for my next bicycle trip.

When working hard or lifting heavy things you realise the rare air up here on 1800 metres altitude so that you run out of breath quite quickly during the first week until your body gets used to it. Another annoying low pressure side effect encounters whenever opening fizzy drinks. The bottle shows similar “breathing problems” which might end up in a drenched drinker.

But my rule not to write too much about my new job within the first working week stays. What I find pretty neat is that they even celebrate a welcome party for me. More about the job, culture and surrounding together with pics within the next weeks.

Welcomeparty

Special thanks to: Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Alan Munro, UK (proofreading), Rakoczi Katalin, Hungary (photo), Lilith Pendzich;

Continue reading »]]> Sleepless in Shuttle

After another sleepless night on an airplane I arrived at Narita Airport for the second time. This time even more packed with stuff compared to the first time. I brought my bicycle trailer and my snowboard. Well, since I don’t have my own bicycle (I used my sister’s bicycle for the Hamburg – Rome bicycle trip) I obviously need to deal with that problem here in Japan. However I’ve still got some time for that as the trip is scheduled for 2012 and I do not intend to start in the winter season.

Oh, there is something I kept as a secret so far: My new job here in Japan. Those who have accompanied me on my Japan stay through my blog so far might remember that I already had arranged a job at an Onsen (hot spring) hotel in the Mountains of Gunma Prefecture close to Nagano before I began my Japan stay. After 3/11, tourism all over Japan had decreased and so the hotel manager apologised for being unable to hire me. However he got back to me some months later, telling me he could use me now. As I had found another job by then we set a starting date for the first of November. Even though Fukushima completely screwed up my plans for Japan the outcome was even better. I knew the hotel was located in the mountains. I knew it was an onsen hotel. I did not know that it is in middle of a winter sports area. Of course I would have happily worked there during the summer season when I could “only” have enjoyed the onsen and walking around the mountains. But this way I get to enjoy both the onsen as well as snowboarding.

First I have to pick up some stuff my dear and record breaking host Brandon kept for me while I was in Germany. But how to get from Narita Airport, Chiba prefecture to Kawagoe, Saitama Prefecture almost 62 miles packed with a rucksack, a 47 inch x 23 inch x 20 inch bicycle trailer weighing 101 pounds including a snowboard without having to pay a fortune? And how to get then from there back to Tokyo again to catch the bus to Manza, Gunma Prefecture? I’m definitely too packed for any train or metro. Luckily there are buses to Kawagoe. And for 3.000 Yen (37,95 AUD, 39,48 CAD, 24,68 GBP, 38,60 USD) it’s not even expensive.

“Brother from another mother:” being welcomed by Brandon in Kawagoe.

The hotel I will be working at has it’s own company bus that departs daily (!) at 9 a.m. from Shinjuku, Tokyo. Packed with five items now I definitely can’t take the metro to get there from Kawagoe. It’s almost about 31 miles after all. So once again I depend on a coach service. Actually there is one company offering such a service however only after 9 a. m. and … it’s the only one I can find. A taxi would cost me at least 7.000 Yen (88 AUD, 92 CAD, 57,6 GBP, 90 USD) if not more, if I found one at all that could carry and if so would accept this much stuff at all. I feel kind of ashamed to ask former hosts with cars since November the 1^st is a regular working Tuesday—it’s understandable that they have better things to do than to be my chauffeur. Wait a minute… I came to Kawagoe by an airport bus. And they run 24/7 to almost every place in the Tokyo metropolitan area and also 24/7 from almost every Tokyo metropolitan area. Hmmm… Let’s search: Haneda airport to Shinjuku. Arrival time 8:30. Wow, success! But would be there at 7:30 already. Departing from Haneda airport at 6:15. Okay, now Kawagoe to Haneda Airport. Oh …. hmmmm departing 4:25 a.m.

Well, I knew it would take sacrifices. With my Tetris packing skills I managed to pack everything in my bicycle trailer two big plastic bags, my backpack and the snowboard goes on top of my trailer. After another sleepless packing night at Brandon’s, in buses and at the airport, I finally arrive in Shinjuku. I’m at the place described by the hotel manager—there are buses but even at ten to nine there’s no sign of the Manza bus. I’m sending a text message to the manager… No reply. 5 to nine. I’m calling him. Nobody is picking up….

At about 20 minutes past nine I discover the bus station where the bus departs form. The bus had already taken off of course. I’m going to bus station manager. He has the landline number of the Onsen hotel, is calling it for me and hands me the phone.

“Hi is this Ichimura San?” I’m asking.

“Ah Simon San, I’m sorry I forgot my cell phone at home today. Oh by the way I just realised I made a mistake when describing how to get to the bus station. It’s not south side it’s west side.”, he apologises.

“Yeah, I think I just realised that as well” is my reply.

”But can you still come via train? You know transportation fee is the companie’s burden”, he is asking.

“Er, no I’m afraid that won’t be possible”, I’m replying.

“Ah wakarimasu ne. But tomorrow via our bus?” he’s asking again…

Hm… I think I’ve got another problem. Should I really get all my stuff now back to Brandon? I am pretty sure he would host me again but after all he did for me so far I simply don’t want to bother him any more. With all my stuff it would be outrageous to beg any host for an emergency couch for only one night. As much as I earned within the last four months I should actually afford myself a night in a hostel but who knows if I will stay this lucky regarding finding new jobs after my next one? For safety reasons I’d rather save the money. Luckily it is a bright and shiny day without the slightest sign of a cloud. And even though it’s November the temperature is quite all right. So yes, I am really thinking of sleeping in a park. I know it’s not legal and not how a guest should behave in a foreign country. But these times are tough.

One might wonder now how it fits together that I on one hand indulge myself the luxury to travel world wide, to take my snowboard with me but stint on the other hand with 3.000 Yen (37,95 AUD, 39,48 CAD, 24,68 GBP, 38,60 USD) for a night. I’d like to emphasise the following regarding that: My Hamburg – Rome bicycle trip was more a makeshift since I lost my job during the world wide economic crisis and it appeared senseless to me to apply for jobs in a time in which thousands experienced a similar fate and it was therefore quite unlikely to quickly find a job at a time in which most companies rather dismissed people instead of hiring them. The reason for my Japan stay is admittedly and surely my thirst for adventure but also the fact that I’ve never accomplished a one-yearlong lasting stay abroad with which I’d like to value my CV. And the snowboard? – Is ten years old and was a present. And if you book a flight about one year in advance, put some effort in a sophisticated search you will be stunned for how little money it is possible to travel around the world. And this shall also be told: Who searches long enough will find an airline that does not even charge to transport a snowboard. But now back to Shinjuku.

Where to put my stuff while I’m sleeping? Jim and Heath! Right, one of my first hosts who live in Shibuya nearby Shinjuku. Hm… Can’t reach them via phone. Seems I have to go there with all my stuff and ring the bell.

Finally there somebody’s opening the door. But it’s neither Jim nor Heath.

“Hi, er you must be a couch surfer I suppose?” I’m asking the gentleman.

“Well, kind of. Jim and Heath rented the house to us while they are on their vacation”, he’s replying.

“Oh, that’s embarrassing. Well, I’m a former couchsurfing guest. I kind of got stranded, not asking to stay for a night only if I could leave my things here at the pitch for a night?” I’m explaining.

“Well, sure. No problem!”

As I’m so exhausted I’m lying down on a meadow in a park. About three hours later I awake. 3 p.m. of course too early to finally settle down for today. Hm… maybe I should go to a hairdresser’s before seeing my new employee.

So this is my first time I am at a Japanese hairdresser’s. She’s doing a good job. What I like about the Japanese hairdressers over the German ones is that they wash your hair not before but after you got your cut so that really all cut hairs are gone. Also interesting: They clean your ears with the towel. Kind of shocking or let’s simply say unexpected if you are not used to that. But what I like best is that I’m receiving a free shoulder and back massage after all is set and done! And as much as my shoulders are aching after the long haul today it comes at a time that couldn’t have been chosen more sense-fully. All this for 3.500 Yen (44,28 AUD, 46,06 CAD, 28,80 GBP, 45,03). Better invested than in a hotel night. :)

After getting a sushi pack from a grocery store for dinner I can even brush my teeth in one of the park toilets. Wow, got my hair washed, teeth and face cleaned—only need to find a cosy spot in a park which can’t be spotted by the police. When finally finding one I’m discovering several homeless people who seem to be used to this place already. As I am unfolding my camping matt and sleeping bag I feel a bit ashamed. For me this situation is like an adventure. For them it’s their daily routine. I get into my sleeping bag and fall asleep quite quickly. I wake up about three times at night but with my jacket on in my sleeping bag it’s really all right.

A grip to my throat the next morning tells me it is not cut through. A grip to my pockets tells me my wallet is still there. No I am not in a prison cell. And yes, after picking up my stuff from Jim and Heath’s I’m finally catching the bus to Manza!

Special thanks to: Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Jim McKinley (proofreading), Lilith Pendzich;

Continue reading »]]> Woho, I’m an alien. I’m a legal alien I’m a German man in Japan…

To be honest I didn’t find a way to get my foreigner’s registration card without having a permanent address here in Japan. However Jim and Heath were nice enough to use their address to get myself registered. It is once again one of these situations in which I am asking myself how I am supposed to give all this back to the couchsurfing community? Because Jim and Heath asked me if I’d like to do it this way. I did not even ask for it.

It’s Friday, Friday, fun, fun, party, party…

I once again face the challenge of finding my new host’s station. After straying around again my desperate look must have caught the attention of a slightly drunk owner of a recycling company. He is just on his way back home from his work party and once again someone is not only explaining the way to me, but is also guiding me to the right station. However we end up at two wrong stations along the way. Well, this is not his fault. It’s the alcohol’s fault.

I need a Hiro!!!

Hiro is my new host. He works at Japan’s telephone network. I asked him to stay for two nights in his flat. But it will only be one. Why? Originally he wanted to go to an Onsen (hot springs) hotel together with a friend of his and stay there for a night. But since his friend had to call it off a new “victim” had to be found. And this “victim” is me. “It is okay, Simon, you are invited. Of course you don’t have to pay for the hotel!” Slowly Japan is becoming creepy to me. If it goes on this way I will be promoted to a Yakuza boss (Japanese Mafia) after all.

Actually I’m welcomed by Hiro like a Yakuza boss. In his Lexus limousine with integrated TV-Set he’s taking me to a restaurant and of course there’s no chance to pay for the bill by myself! I like the restaurant’s concept. Every table is equipped with a grill in its middle. And the buffet is loaded with bite-sized cuts of meat for everyone to take.

But all this is of course not enough for the Yakuza boss so I’m getting invited to the public bath. This is deeply rooted into Japanese culture. I think it can be compared to the Roman bath culture. The Japanese people enjoy their baths naked and separated by gender. Often it’s mothers with their daughters and fathers with their sons. But even if I didn’t bring my family with me I’m still being granted access :)

Hey, what is the girl doing here in our department? And she’s dressed that’s not fair! She works here. Wait a minute. That gives me an idea. Perhaps the baths here are also offering  jobs for males in the girls section. Hmm…

No matter where you look at you’ll see the man’s best unit everywhere. Many of us might have stumbled over the penis map that recently has been rife on the internet. I wonder how those who have compiled this map took their measurements. Did they really measure the size on about 1.000 People of all their countries each to get a representative result? How did Japan do once again?

Oh… I see. Hm, well yes… Well I didn’t take any measurements personally and really don’t have any interest in doing so here, but well according to sense of proportion I can at least confirm the result for this bath here. Well, … *giggle* I don’t really want to brag but … he he… Okay. I’m going to stop it right here. Because of all of those wonderful things that happened to me here so far I really haven’t earned the right to poke fun. As the saying goes: It’s not about size it’s about the technique. And here the Japanese people are far more advanced than we are. How if not because of this would Japan have made it to one of the largest industrial countries of the world? There! And even in the public baths Japanese people can’t wave the high tech. As there is one bath in which you sit down between two electric diodes. I wonder if this is supposed to be relaxing or something for masochists…

Sometimes it does not even have to be complex technique. It all starts over with such small things like lining up in a queue/line.

queueing with IQ / A line for the Metro line

It works at every platform, every escalator everywhere! Juvenile scrambling as we know it from our western countries is to be sought in vain here. And even in the metro Japanese people don’t have to prove constantly that they can shout the loudest in their cell phones – as many stupid/silly Germans do all the time. Making a phone call in the Metro is prohibited. Epic!

Saturday.

On our way to Kinugawa

Hiro and me packed the car. We’re heading off for Kinugawa to the Onsen hotel. It’s about 100 km (62 miles) north of Tokyo. Fukushima is only 165 km (102 miles) away from there.

During a short break Hiro shows me a 100 Yen shop which are very popular in Japan.

100 Yen Shop

Eyecandy

Our hotel rooms smell like hay. “That’s the Tatami mats on the floor”, Hiro explains to me. When entering the room I’m thinking to myself: “Well done but the guys forgot to put beds into the room.” After a little while Hiro tells me that the beds are being made while you are eating in the restaurant.

Hayhotel

Hotel with history

View from our room

mad mattresses

Fact! When coming back from the Restaurant, two mattresses like entities are lying on the Tatami floor. And this is how I’m spending the first night of my life in Japan in a hotel without a bed. A sacred duty of every hotel room: to have a water heater and of course different sorts of tea. Hiro is pouring me a cup. Hm… I don’t know how they did it but the tea tastes exactly like the floor smells like. Like hay :)

Cool Kimonos

Please don’t get me wrong here. I’m not complaining and don’t want to sound arrogant. I had the best weekend so far in Japan thanks to Hiro! It was simply awesome! Thank you Hiro! For everything!

Also very interesting are the signs on the way back. The in Japan omnipresent raccoon dog tanuki. Ohh how cuuute!

Tanuki

Umbrella savety requirement

And even the fact that umbrellas are required on the highway/motorway seems a bit strange to me.

How may I imagine that? Maybe like on the photo?

Pan Tau in Japan. Photo by Hiroyuki Ochiai

So that I can’t get lost in Tokoy’s metro system once again Hiro is taking me to my next host by car on Sunday straight to one of Saitama‘s outskirts, Kawagoe. Brandon, a 23 year old American who has already lived in Japan for two years and will return in November. He’s showing me very interesting videos he made about Japan. After a late meeting we have an impromptu dinner and it turns out that Hiro is not only a very kind person but also an adept cook.

Brandon also works as an English teacher. But he has no problems leaving his flat to me while he’s heading out for work on Monday. However I’m also heading off for the city soon as I have to register for my work and travel stay at Shibuya city hall to get my