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Asap to Sapporo

keep cool!

As promised in my last post I`m delivering some photos of Sapporo‘s Yuki Matsuri (Snow Festival). As the 1.9 million inhabited city of Sapporo is comparatively young, constructions of Sapporo village only began in 1866 – whereas settlements in Kyoto or Nara date back to the 6th and 7th century – it can’t attract tourist with none existing historic temples or shrines. In winter 1950 a group of Students crafted sculptures of snow at Ōdōri-Park. This became an annual event and in 1955 Japan Self-Defense Forces joined and since then it evolved to a steadily growing event which was also discovered by the city to attracted tourists. Today Yuki Matsuri is one of the biggest international festivals of it’s kind and attracts 2 million tourists every year.
When getting to Sapporo from Tokyo (this time not via bicycle but by plane) someone at Sapporo Central Station shouts at me: “Simon, Simon!! Is it really you?” Gaku, my host from the 200 km away City Hakodate is also here. I seem to provoke such situations as a similar situation also happened to me twice in Tokyo when I visited the city for just one day both times. Gaku and I agree to meet the next day to explore the festival together.

Sapporo’s TV tower

We went out of bricks let’s use ice

There are two big boulevards. One exhibiting ice sculptures (Susukino) the other one coming up with huge snow- and ice buildings (Ōdōri-Park) re-sampling crystal clear castles, historic houses and statues or sculptures made out of snow. Round up by a vast alignment of merchandise-, food-, and souvenir booths.

Jump scene! Keep your skies crossed for me!

bottom ice

Yuki Matsuri is both during day time and at night well worth exploring. To get a good overview of all the attractions I recommend exploring the fair grounds during day time. But Sapporo’s night life and especially the colour changing lit snow- and ice buildings are breathtaking. During the whole day there are events going on everywhere in town. A giant ramp with jumps covered with snow is set up on the city’s biggest boulevard where ski- and snowboard artists perform neck breaking jumps. At night the ramp is also used as a projection surface. Bands play in front of a lit ice castle, the front wall of a snow house is being used as a giant screen to project an animated film on it, music students of the Sapporo University take part in a music contest and perform their very own compositions to the light play of an ice castle …
Sapporo is sister city with Munich among others. Despite a huge Maibaum (maypole) which was financed by Sapporo’s sister city, I discovered promotion posters of the Olympic summer games of 1972 which were held in Munich and Sapporo hosted the Olympic winter games the same year. Back then the summer and winter games still took place in the same year. The Olympic committee changed this rule in 1992. Since 1994 the Olympic Summer- and Winter games take turns in a two year term. Sapporo and Munich also have another thing in common: Beer. As Munich is famous for their local brands like Paulaner, Hacker-Pschorr, Augustiener, Hofbräu, Löwenbräu or Spaten, Sappo has Sapporo. Found in 1876 by Seibei Nakagawa, a master brewer trained at Tivoli-Brauerei in Berlin.

Wow! What a cool car! lazy eyes

Fish eyes

All the sites of Yuki Matsuri don’t charge an entrance fee. Even the huge slides made of snow are free. However attractions like snow rafting or photo shoots charge a fee of course.

The best place to warm up after such cold days is either to go to an Onsen (hot spring spa which can be found nearly everywhere around Japan) or to have a tasty yaki niku (Korean barbecue). For those who can’t imagine how it works I posted some pics too.

Yaki Niku restaurant

I head to Furano – Hokkaido’s largest winter sports area where you won’t find a single snow canon! The snow is amazing! The area offers a huge variety of slopes. Decent powder-, perfectly prepared-, tricky bumpy-slopes, narrow picturesque forest tracks, and also wide and easy slopes – epic! Still compared to French, Swiss, Austrian or Italian standards the size of the whole skiing area is tiny. However I’d say it’s one skiing area with the best snow I’ve ever had in my life so far. (Probably) due to demographic development in Japan there are no long queues/lines at the lifts. Only on Sundays you might have to wait for five to maximum ten minutes at certain lifts. This situation is transferable to almost every skiing area in Japan. No matter if it’s the ski resorts around Nagano or in Niseko or Furano.

Fantastic Furano

Even in the warmer time of the year Furano is well worth a visit. There is a thriving flower- and plant growing economy in this region. Furano is especially know for it’s vast lavender fields hence the souvenir shops offer a large range of lavender products. Starting with pure dried lavender herbs over lavender soaps, shampoos, lotions, etc. Another famous Hokkaido brand is Royce’ chocolate. Even Furano offers a shop with chocolate of the luxury brand. Expensive but tasty. Give it a try.

Chocolate Museum Sapporo

Beer Museum Sapporo

Furano forest

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Special thanks to: Heide Engelstädter, Kyle Steward (text revision), Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Lilith Pendzich

Continue reading »]]> Maria Prusakova Part II

Masha about how it is to go back to a “normal” life again. Advice for Snowboarders. And something about her successor.

Masha part 2 von Daaaaaaaaaaaax

(My apologies for the bad sound. The battery for my mic died that day and it was not possible to get a replacement up here in the mountains)

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Next Sunday, Japan is going to commemorate the earthquake-, tsunami-, and reactor catastrophe of 3/11. In respect of all the people who lost their family members and friends I decided not to post an article next week but only to concentrate on updates. Our thoughts are with the people who lost their lives or existence that day.

Special thanks to: Maria Prusakova, Russia; Hayden Rhodes, New Zealand; Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Lilith Pendzich;

Continue reading »]]> Maria Prusakova

Masha about how she made it to the Olympic Winter Games in Turino 2006.

Masha von Daaaaaaaaaaaax
(My apologies for the bad sound quality. The battery for my mic died that day and it was not possible to get a replacement up here in the mountains)

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Next week part two: Masha about how it is to go back from an athlete life to a “normal” life again. And some advice for boarders.

Special thanks to: Maria Prusakova, Russia; Hayden Rhodes, New Zealand; Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Lilith Pendzich;

Continue reading »]]> Video Mania

Well, well, it’s once again video time. But this place is simply too beautiful not to be filmed.

Beagstaign von Daaaaaaaaaaaax

Manza Mountain

My colleague Hayden wanted to do some snowboard tricks. Unfortunately the slope was not steep enough. He explains the healthiest way to walk and why walking is so healthy.

Surftrainingsecrets.com von Daaaaaaaaaaaax
Next week, will have a written post again. This time about Karaoke. So long!

Special thanks to: Hayden Rhodes, New Zealand; Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Lilith Pendzich;

Continue reading »]]> Sleepless in Shuttle

After another sleepless night on an airplane I arrived at Narita Airport for the second time. This time even more packed with stuff compared to the first time. I brought my bicycle trailer and my snowboard. Well, since I don’t have my own bicycle (I used my sister’s bicycle for the Hamburg – Rome bicycle trip) I obviously need to deal with that problem here in Japan. However I’ve still got some time for that as the trip is scheduled for 2012 and I do not intend to start in the winter season.

Oh, there is something I kept as a secret so far: My new job here in Japan. Those who have accompanied me on my Japan stay through my blog so far might remember that I already had arranged a job at an Onsen (hot spring) hotel in the Mountains of Gunma Prefecture close to Nagano before I began my Japan stay. After 3/11, tourism all over Japan had decreased and so the hotel manager apologised for being unable to hire me. However he got back to me some months later, telling me he could use me now. As I had found another job by then we set a starting date for the first of November. Even though Fukushima completely screwed up my plans for Japan the outcome was even better. I knew the hotel was located in the mountains. I knew it was an onsen hotel. I did not know that it is in middle of a winter sports area. Of course I would have happily worked there during the summer season when I could “only” have enjoyed the onsen and walking around the mountains. But this way I get to enjoy both the onsen as well as snowboarding.

First I have to pick up some stuff my dear and record breaking host Brandon kept for me while I was in Germany. But how to get from Narita Airport, Chiba prefecture to Kawagoe, Saitama Prefecture almost 62 miles packed with a rucksack, a 47 inch x 23 inch x 20 inch bicycle trailer weighing 101 pounds including a snowboard without having to pay a fortune? And how to get then from there back to Tokyo again to catch the bus to Manza, Gunma Prefecture? I’m definitely too packed for any train or metro. Luckily there are buses to Kawagoe. And for 3.000 Yen (37,95 AUD, 39,48 CAD, 24,68 GBP, 38,60 USD) it’s not even expensive.

“Brother from another mother:” being welcomed by Brandon in Kawagoe.

The hotel I will be working at has it’s own company bus that departs daily (!) at 9 a.m. from Shinjuku, Tokyo. Packed with five items now I definitely can’t take the metro to get there from Kawagoe. It’s almost about 31 miles after all. So once again I depend on a coach service. Actually there is one company offering such a service however only after 9 a. m. and … it’s the only one I can find. A taxi would cost me at least 7.000 Yen (88 AUD, 92 CAD, 57,6 GBP, 90 USD) if not more, if I found one at all that could carry and if so would accept this much stuff at all. I feel kind of ashamed to ask former hosts with cars since November the 1^st is a regular working Tuesday—it’s understandable that they have better things to do than to be my chauffeur. Wait a minute… I came to Kawagoe by an airport bus. And they run 24/7 to almost every place in the Tokyo metropolitan area and also 24/7 from almost every Tokyo metropolitan area. Hmmm… Let’s search: Haneda airport to Shinjuku. Arrival time 8:30. Wow, success! But would be there at 7:30 already. Departing from Haneda airport at 6:15. Okay, now Kawagoe to Haneda Airport. Oh …. hmmmm departing 4:25 a.m.

Well, I knew it would take sacrifices. With my Tetris packing skills I managed to pack everything in my bicycle trailer two big plastic bags, my backpack and the snowboard goes on top of my trailer. After another sleepless packing night at Brandon’s, in buses and at the airport, I finally arrive in Shinjuku. I’m at the place described by the hotel manager—there are buses but even at ten to nine there’s no sign of the Manza bus. I’m sending a text message to the manager… No reply. 5 to nine. I’m calling him. Nobody is picking up….

At about 20 minutes past nine I discover the bus station where the bus departs form. The bus had already taken off of course. I’m going to bus station manager. He has the landline number of the Onsen hotel, is calling it for me and hands me the phone.

“Hi is this Ichimura San?” I’m asking.

“Ah Simon San, I’m sorry I forgot my cell phone at home today. Oh by the way I just realised I made a mistake when describing how to get to the bus station. It’s not south side it’s west side.”, he apologises.

“Yeah, I think I just realised that as well” is my reply.

”But can you still come via train? You know transportation fee is the companie’s burden”, he is asking.

“Er, no I’m afraid that won’t be possible”, I’m replying.

“Ah wakarimasu ne. But tomorrow via our bus?” he’s asking again…

Hm… I think I’ve got another problem. Should I really get all my stuff now back to Brandon? I am pretty sure he would host me again but after all he did for me so far I simply don’t want to bother him any more. With all my stuff it would be outrageous to beg any host for an emergency couch for only one night. As much as I earned within the last four months I should actually afford myself a night in a hostel but who knows if I will stay this lucky regarding finding new jobs after my next one? For safety reasons I’d rather save the money. Luckily it is a bright and shiny day without the slightest sign of a cloud. And even though it’s November the temperature is quite all right. So yes, I am really thinking of sleeping in a park. I know it’s not legal and not how a guest should behave in a foreign country. But these times are tough.

One might wonder now how it fits together that I on one hand indulge myself the luxury to travel world wide, to take my snowboard with me but stint on the other hand with 3.000 Yen (37,95 AUD, 39,48 CAD, 24,68 GBP, 38,60 USD) for a night. I’d like to emphasise the following regarding that: My Hamburg – Rome bicycle trip was more a makeshift since I lost my job during the world wide economic crisis and it appeared senseless to me to apply for jobs in a time in which thousands experienced a similar fate and it was therefore quite unlikely to quickly find a job at a time in which most companies rather dismissed people instead of hiring them. The reason for my Japan stay is admittedly and surely my thirst for adventure but also the fact that I’ve never accomplished a one-yearlong lasting stay abroad with which I’d like to value my CV. And the snowboard? – Is ten years old and was a present. And if you book a flight about one year in advance, put some effort in a sophisticated search you will be stunned for how little money it is possible to travel around the world. And this shall also be told: Who searches long enough will find an airline that does not even charge to transport a snowboard. But now back to Shinjuku.

Where to put my stuff while I’m sleeping? Jim and Heath! Right, one of my first hosts who live in Shibuya nearby Shinjuku. Hm… Can’t reach them via phone. Seems I have to go there with all my stuff and ring the bell.

Finally there somebody’s opening the door. But it’s neither Jim nor Heath.

“Hi, er you must be a couch surfer I suppose?” I’m asking the gentleman.

“Well, kind of. Jim and Heath rented the house to us while they are on their vacation”, he’s replying.

“Oh, that’s embarrassing. Well, I’m a former couchsurfing guest. I kind of got stranded, not asking to stay for a night only if I could leave my things here at the pitch for a night?” I’m explaining.

“Well, sure. No problem!”

As I’m so exhausted I’m lying down on a meadow in a park. About three hours later I awake. 3 p.m. of course too early to finally settle down for today. Hm… maybe I should go to a hairdresser’s before seeing my new employee.

So this is my first time I am at a Japanese hairdresser’s. She’s doing a good job. What I like about the Japanese hairdressers over the German ones is that they wash your hair not before but after you got your cut so that really all cut hairs are gone. Also interesting: They clean your ears with the towel. Kind of shocking or let’s simply say unexpected if you are not used to that. But what I like best is that I’m receiving a free shoulder and back massage after all is set and done! And as much as my shoulders are aching after the long haul today it comes at a time that couldn’t have been chosen more sense-fully. All this for 3.500 Yen (44,28 AUD, 46,06 CAD, 28,80 GBP, 45,03). Better invested than in a hotel night. :)

After getting a sushi pack from a grocery store for dinner I can even brush my teeth in one of the park toilets. Wow, got my hair washed, teeth and face cleaned—only need to find a cosy spot in a park which can’t be spotted by the police. When finally finding one I’m discovering several homeless people who seem to be used to this place already. As I am unfolding my camping matt and sleeping bag I feel a bit ashamed. For me this situation is like an adventure. For them it’s their daily routine. I get into my sleeping bag and fall asleep quite quickly. I wake up about three times at night but with my jacket on in my sleeping bag it’s really all right.

A grip to my throat the next morning tells me it is not cut through. A grip to my pockets tells me my wallet is still there. No I am not in a prison cell. And yes, after picking up my stuff from Jim and Heath’s I’m finally catching the bus to Manza!

Special thanks to: Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Jim McKinley (proofreading), Lilith Pendzich;